Amarnath Yatra 2014 - My personal experience in my own words
I am 30 years old male, visited Amarnath Cave, on 27 Jul 2014, along with my father who is 63 years old, where the Shiva Lingam is formed by Ice and persists throughout 30 to 40 day period in between mid of July month to 2nd week of August.
Since this was our first visit, and we had many negative thoughts throughout the journey , as many passengers travelling in flights ( MH370, MH17) were feared dead in unexpected accidents, few months before our journey.
Both me and my father have suffered tiredness quickly upon walking even for a shorter duration, felt some uneasiness, we were scared to death towards and forth the journey on a Horse along with the Horse owner who walks past with us, while we sit on the Horse.
We have booked our Spicejet flights from Hyderabad to Srinagar, Via Delhi on 26 Jul 2014 that started at 6am and we reached srinagar by connecting flights by 11am. We have earlier booked Helicopter tickets from Pahalgam route to Panjtarni to visit Amarnath Cave. So after reaching Srinagar Airport, we have booked a Taxi/Cab towards pahalgam for Rs. 2500 which dropped us at the Hotel Volga, Pahalgam which we have booked online earlier. The journey took 3 hours from 11am to 2pm to reach Pahalgam from Srinagar. After reaching hotel, we checked in and requested for late checkout on 27 Jul 2014, as we thought we would return by 4pm on the next day after having darshan quickly by Helicopter. For the rest of the day on 26 Jul 2014, we had our lunch(Veg Thali) at Daana Paani Restaurant just opposite to Hotel Volga, and visited the Himalayan Helipad which was about 1.5 kms to find out the best possible time to visit Amarnath and come back to pahalgam. There we talked to the staff and got some details, and they asked us to come early as they will be sending us on a first come first serve basis. After this conversation with the staff, we walked towards the scenic garden that was surrounded by waters of River Lidder flowing on limestone rocks which was so beautiful. The place is covered with few other big greenery mountains and some had a Ice cap mountains. We enjoyed the evening till 7pm as the daylight was still there at that time. After that, we visited the main market near taxi stand to buy Gloves, Leather caps that covers our ears as well for myself and my father for the next day's visit to Lord Shiva at Amarnath cave. We had a light snacks in the night and walked back towards hotel for a quick sleep. Before we slept, we have packed our bags which contained dry fruits, generic medicines available over the counter like Crocin, Brufin, ColdAct incase, if we get catch of cold or fever or body pains along with Moov muscle Pain spray and the newly bought gloves and caps.
On the 27th Jul 2014, we got up early at 5am and had a hot bath and wore a hooded sweatshirt and a Jacket on top of that and carried our bags which we packed on the last night towards the Helipad which took 15mins of walking from our hotel. After reaching the Helipad, we were asked to wait for 4 hours since the weather is not clear for the Helicopter route. Later, we heard it was a usual thing for them to delay it by 9.30 am to 10.30am for the first helicopter to start off towards Panjtarni even for pilgrims who have booked their helicopter at 5am. Our turn was at 11.30am, where we sat in helicopter for an awesome aerial view towards Panjtarni. It took 14 minutes and the aerial view was simply cant be explained. So many ice capped mountains around, little waterfalls from top of the mountain flowing downwards, and huge ice covered on the surface of mountains, and also at one point, we saw a beautiful lake formed from the ice melting from 4 mountains which i can never forget. This is one true experience that is unforgettable. I felt as if our Gods live here a real Paradise on Earth.
After we reached Panjtarni, we sat back on Horse for a ride towards Amarnath which is still 6 kms, but we felt it would be 8kms once we reached the cave. The journey on horse was so scary, as the horse usually moves at the edge of the footpath of each mountain's circumference. We have to adjust our seating on the horse such a way that, if the horse is moving on a steep way, we have to sit backward such that our weight balances the horse, and similarly when the horse moves on a slope, we have to sit forward so that it becomes easy to climb the steps or upwards for the horse. It took 1.5 hours for onward journey. From there we had to climb stairs which were around 600 to 800 to see the ice form of Siva Lingam. After a very tough journey, having darshan was the happiest moment in our lives. We paid our obeisance at the deity and started returning on the same horse with the tips the horse owner has educated us. The return on horse was more scary than the onward journey for about 1.5 to 2 hours on the same route. There is only one route for towards and return from Amarnath cave. We had to face many down stairs throughout and we had to tightly hold the reins of the horse. Hold the reins at just the right tension so as to maintain control while giving enough freedom to the horse.Do not jerk or pull the rein as it conveys your nervousness to the horse, besides causing pain. We have to be very patient and wait for the journey on the horse to end till we reach the Helipad at Panjtarn which is again surrounded by beautiful mountains and in the middle, Lidder river flows from one end to the another. Since we reached at 5pm, the helipad staff communicated that it might not possible to return on the same day, but to wait for some more time. We waited till 7pm and then we hired a tent for Rs.150 per person for a whole night stay in the cold weather might be 6 degree Celsius.
There were 2-3 Charitable trusts NGO's, which provides free hot food including Rice, Roti, Dal, Kheer, Water and Hot tea. I took their visiting card so that i can donate once i reach my home back in hyderabad.
The service they provided here was such a great thing in such climate and cold weather for this duration of Amarnath Yatra. We were so amused and impressed by their free services.
After spending a night in the tent in such a cold climate, we woke up early at 5.30AM so that we can go back to Pahalgam where our luggage was left. But in vain, we waited till 11pm , but still the helicopter services did not resumed. While the helicopters on the other route towards Baltal from Panjtarni were still operational, all other pilgrims who had their flight on the evening had cancelled the helicopter tickets from Himalayan Heli Service Pvt Ltd and bought tickets from Pawan Hans Pvt Ltd or Globak Vectra Ltd to reach baltal and from Baltal , they planned to hire taxi towards pahalgam via Srinagar. We also waited for some more time and did the same though our return flight towards hyderabad was on the next day.
The journey from Baltal to Pahalgam via Gulmarg, Srinagar was awesome with the river flowing alongside of the black top ghat roads which took 4 hours to reach our hotel. Once we were back to the hotel, we had a hot bath and started returning to Srinagar as the next day was a Ramzan so we thought we might not get a taxi on the next day, as all the kashmiri's would be busy on their religious day, which is Ramzan. Once we reached Srinagar, we checked in at a hotel near Dal lake and slept. On the next day we visited Hazrat gardens, Dal lake, Shankaracharya temple ( which took 2 hours to and fro) and we returned back to hotel by 2pm afternoon and checked out to airport as we had our flight at 4pm from srinagar to hyderabad via Delhi.
How to Reach
Nearest Aiport is Srinagar as of today's date.
From Srinagar, we have two routes.
1) Srinagar to Baltal, From baltal take a helicopter or walk for 13 kms to reach panjtarni and again 6-8 kms on pony or horse or palki. This is considered shortest travel time both by helicopter(4-5minutes) and on foot so that pilgrims can return on the same day. This route is considered to be little dangerous though it is shortest route.
2) Srinagar to Pahalgam, from pahalgam, take a helicopter or walk for 40-50kms to reach panjtarni and again 6-8 kms on pony or horse or palki. This is the traditional route followed and considered to be the longest travel time.
What to wear
Wear woolen clothes, Hooded Sweatshirts, Rain Jackets, Gloves, Compulsory trekking shoes with woolen socks, Vaseline or Cold creams, Vicks Inhalers
What to expect
Climate changes very frequently and one can expect sudden rainfall or extremely cold or sometimes hot weather. So people who are fit and have already had been walking for about 5kms daily prior to this journey is recommended. Bring spare clothes, if you are willing to stay in tents. Only 5kgs is allowed to carry in helicopters. Aerial photography while on helicopter, is prohibited at the time of this writing. We can see many indian army supporting us and there for us for our safe journey. Prepare yourself to stay in night at the tents, incase if weather does not permit and helicopter operations might not resume until next day.
What can go wrong
Ride on horse may slip or Palki carried by 3-4 persons may slip
Breathlessness due to high altitude
Cardiac Arrest
Rolling stones/landslides
Slipping while walking on ice
How to return Safely
- Dont attempt any shortcuts seriously.
- Be calm and follow others.
- Go along with group of other pilgrims to and forth the journey.
- Carry enough light weight dry fruits, water bottle, camphor, smell Camphor when breathlessness is observed
- Carry light weight cameras, click and capture, spare camera batteries ( buy spare before the journey, which is worth, so that you can capture many lifetime moments and landscapes)
- Only BSNL YATRA SIM cards which i bought at Pahalgam, will work till amarnath cave, for mobile communications, though there are few PCO's which is really a boon for many. I used the SIM card to message my mother and others that we had a safe darshan from amarnath cave.
- At the time of this writing, i found 3G/internet does not work.
- People with breathing problem, can avoid this journey.
How to register for Yatra
- First we need to obtain Health certificate from prescribed doctors mentioned in http://www.shriamarnathjishrine.com/index.html
- We need to download registration forms from http://www.shriamarnathjishrine.com/index.html
- Fill the form and submit along with stamp size photographs, Health certificate at the designated banks mentioned in http://www.shriamarnathjishrine.com/index.html
- Carry the Yatra ticket always with you till the end of journey(The yatra ticket given by Banks consists of 3 tearable tickets like movie tickets which we might use to get Yatra SIM card at Pahalgam.)
Do's and Dont's
- Yatra Registration is compulsory for all pilgrims.
- Health certificate is compulsory even for pilgrims planning to take helicopter.
- Dont book return journey on the immediate next day. Plan atleast for 2-3 days minimum
Whats the takeaway from this holy pilgrimage
You have to add your comment,once you experience this holy pilgrimage visit.
We are nothing infront of nature. All are equal before God. We cant take anything or decide against nature or God's decisions.
I had a lifetime experience with full of emotions and had a happy darshan of the Lord shiva. Thankful to God, for returning safe to my home.
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Have a happy and safe journey.
Please do practice walking for 5 kms one month before journey for a healthy journey ahead.
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